How do we love Tipo 00? Let us count the ways. We love the crisp, light focaccia that arrives with a dollop of fresh ricotta as a precursor to the carby good times. We love sitting at the bar observing peak-hour mayhem with a glass of Sicilian carricante from a punchy Italian-leaning list close to hand. And we love the attention-to-detail service that elevates this simple pasta bar into something special – the automatic splitting of the signature squid-ink tagliolini with calamari and bottarga for two diners, for instance, or the way the waiters keep a close eye on the wine glass levels with handy matching suggestions for what’s to come. Easing into its fifth year, the Tipo juggernaut shows no signs of slowing down – just try getting a table at noon any day of the week. If the menu has become more reliable than exciting, it’s just as well that the public’s taste for grilled ox tongue with balsamic and minty outbreaks of pink peppercorns, bucatini with rich wagyu ragù, and the classic Tipomasu (with a 0.05 booze factor) is impossible to satiate.
Kristoffer Paulsen
