It’s such a pleasure to wander through the unassuming downstairs café to discover this wonderful restaurant. The room is similarly low-key and the service understated, placing the focus firmly on the food. Chefs Karl and Katrina Kanetani, whose résumés include Est, Quay and Tetsuya’s, present an impressive seven-course dégustation that draws heavily on local produce. Scallops are deftly balanced against a cauliflower purée, shiitake and hazelnuts. A beautifully textured cut of lamb is paired with cherry tomatoes and umeboshi to excellent effect. The wine list is well considered, incorporating a mix of local and European drops. Town’s reputation for desserts is justly deserved. A rose and Champagne sorbet with praline cream provides a refreshing prelude to a blood plum cheesecake with rye crumble and goat’s curd snow. In a region blessed with great dining options, Town stands out and gets better with each visit.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
