Zanzibar might not possess a panoramic view of the relaxed coastal town of Merimbula, but diners feel the breezy vibe nonetheless. It could come courtesy of pristine local ingredients, many of them plucked from nearby waters, or simply via the charm of hostess Renée Loftus. On the plate, though, it’s more about big-city polish, Huw Jones’s intricate cooking speaking of his days working with Tetsuya Wakuda in Sydney. A composed chirashi sushi plate opens proceedings – fresh, delicately cut local kingfish and sea urchin is balanced by silky dots of avocado. A cornetto filled with a smooth Jerusalem artichoke cream carries a pleasing burst of parmesan, while squid and freshly picked baby zucchini find harmony with buttery black tagliolini. A stylish beehive-like dessert of honey ice-cream, white chocolate and almond ends things with a buzz. Wine skews classic and Australian, and is served with care. A worthy detour.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
