"This dish is so simple, yet served on the sprigs, it's an experience in itself," says Choy. "Most Italians gorge themselves on antipasto and pasta, so the secondi is often just a little piece of meat, char-grilled over vine cuttings or the offcuts of the bay hedge. We do ours here with pork neck (such an underrated cut of meat), anchovy, rosemary and bay - a combination of the fruits of the garden, the farm and the sea."
Note Use woody stems from an older rosemary bush so they're sturdy enough. You can dry leftover rosemary leaves in a low oven and they will keep in an airtight container for a month.
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