As the quince cooks it turns a deep ruby colour, which intensifies, as does the flavour, the longer it's cooked. Some chefs think quince isn't properly cooked until it's this deep colour, but we have opted for a lighter, less intense flavour. However, we've given an estimated cooking time for both below (6 hours for the lighter, and 9 hours for the deeper). Choose a wide saucepan or casserole for this recipe, or a sauté pan. Herbs such as lavender, thyme and rosemary work really well as an addition, as do spices and aromatics such as ginger, cinnamon, pepper and cardamom. We've used a vanilla bean, cinnamon quill and lemon peel. You could also substitute some of the water with wine of your choice.
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