Healthy Eating

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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Gnudi with wilted bitter greens


The success of these tasty gnudi depends on using firm basket ricotta from the deli counter - avoid prepackaged varieties, which are far too wet for this purpose. Add only as much flour as is needed to bind the dough and try not to overwork it; this is the secret to feather-light gnudi.

You'll need

60 ml (1/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil 40 gm butter, coarsely chopped 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 tsp dried chilli flakes 100 gm baby kale, or coarsely torn kale 100 gm chicory, coarsely torn To serve: finely grated parmesan   Gnudi 100 gm spinach (about 1 bunch), trimmed 500 gm firm ricotta 40 gm finely grated parmesan 1 egg, lightly beaten ¼ tsp finely grated nutmeg 150 gm (1 cup) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

Method

  • 01
  • For gnudi, blanch spinach until just wilted (30 seconds), drain, refresh under cold running water and drain again. Squeeze dry in a clean tea towel, then pulse in a food processor until coarsely chopped. Add ricotta, parmesan, egg and nutmeg, season to taste and process to combine. Transfer to a bowl, gently mix in flour until dough just comes together, then tip out onto a lightly floured surface and knead lightly until smooth. Roll a small ball of mixture to test consistency, adding extra flour if necessary. Halve dough, roll into 1.5cm-diameter cylinders then cut into 2cm lengths, pinching the centres gently. Place in a single layer on a lightly floured tray and refrigerate until needed or freeze.
  • 02
  • Heat oil and half the butter in a large frying pan, add garlic and chilli flakes and stir occasionally until fragrant (1 minute), then add kale and chicory, and toss until wilted (1-2 minutes). Season to taste, transfer to a bowl and keep warm.
  • 03
  • Cook gnudi, in batches, in a large saucepan of gently boiling salted water until they rise to the surface (2-3 minutes). Meanwhile, heat remaining butter in a frying pan over medium-high heat until foaming. Remove from heat and transfer gnudi as they cook to butter with a slotted spoon, shaking off excess water. Return frying pan to heat and toss gnudi until light golden (2-3 minutes). Add greens, season to taste and serve hot scattered with grated parmesan.

At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Drink Suggestion

Full-bodied Italian white such as fiano or grillo.

Featured in

Jul 2014

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