Lunch Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm;
dinner Mon-Thu 5.30pm-10pm,
Have the sandwich. There's no arguing with slivers of pan-golden brioche bookending thin layers of smoked wagyu tongue, Gruyère and pickled green tomato. And this being a Nathan Sasi restaurant, the bread, meat and tomato are baked, cured and pickled in-house, and it wouldn't be remiss to wonder if he hadn't made the cheese as well. As it was at Nomad, Moorish culture is a wellspring of inspiration for Sasi. His chorizo, served with mojo verde, is superb, and anchovies over roasted bullhorn pepper on a crisp of pastry almost rival the sandwich as a foil for the impressive wine list. Main courses issue mostly from the rôtisserie and the wood-fired oven and are best shared: salty, juicy chicken, say, or lamb, pale and tender under a dark and savoury crust. The corporate vibe, sometimes cursory service, and schmick basement space aren't entirely simpático with the gutsy integrity of the food, but we're very much in the market for Mercado just the same.