Brunch Sun-Mon 8.30am-2.30pm
There's a reassuring confidence to Stillwater. It's present whether you're there for rye waffles with Huon smoked salmon or a hangover-busting pork and kimchi omelette for breakfast, popping in for a quick glass of wine and chicken liver pâté at the bar or tucking into southern Tasmanian quail with pickled vegetables. Lined with Oregon beams, this room in an old riverside mill is atmospheric and lovingly maintained; the staff well-trained and keen about what's coming out of the kitchen. The wine list strikes a fine, informed balance between the best local stuff and equally interesting overseas labels. Tasmanian produce - locally-caught fish served sashimi-style, black-lip abalone, Cape Grim beef, Moulting Bay oysters - is treated respectfully and knowledgeably, so the food comes across as a genuine expression of the region rather than a tagline from a tourist campaign. It shows that Stillwater really gets where and what it is. It's the real deal.