Lunch daily noon-3pm
Dinner Tue-Sat 6pm-9pm
Bearings count at Stillwater, nearly two decades old and with a venerability that matches the Oregon beam-lined interior of the former mill. The cellar is rich in treasures both local and imported - and sommelier James Welsh navigates it unfailingly. Tasmania isn't prime turf for pinot gris, he says, then whips out a 2015 Ghost Rock that makes a songless throat yodel. Chef Craig Will is just as inspired by local producers, and steers the kitchen with equal certainly. He sears Tasmanian scallops and teams them with nut-brown butter, foraged herbs and a froth of corn for the win. Oysters from St Helens, superb in and of themselves, take on an intriguing new dimension when steamed with dashi and shaved kombu. But it's the carefully selected and prepared Stillwater meat that lingers longest in the taste-memory: a Chateaubriand cut to share from beef raised at pristine Cape Grim, say, with a smoked jus and mushrooms. It still runs deep.
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