As Amaru marks 10 years, Clinton McIver is still chasing perfection

Hospitality may be a fast-paced industry, but it’s also one that rewards patience. Having been heaped with glowing reviews from virtually the moment it opened in 2016, this might not seem applicable to Melbourne’s Amaru, but chef-owner Clinton McIver is quick to disagree. “You might have a vision or a concept in mind, but it’s hard to translate that into reality,” he says. “It took a few years, for me anyway, to find a clear identity for what we do.”

Originally from Queensland, McIver earned his stripes during the four years he spent as sous chef at Vue de Monde in Melbourne, before taking over the kitchen at Clayton Bowls Club. It was a surprising move, but it was in this old-school bowlo setting that he began nutting out the dégustation menu that he’d go on to perfect at Amaru – though he disputes whether perfection is ever possible. “We’re always trying to be that one per cent better than we were yesterday,” he explains. “What’s working, what’s not? Can we do things differently? It’s a constant evolution, although in many ways we approach food quite simply. Rather than smoke and mirrors, we like to allow the ingredients to speak for themselves. I want people to come here and try a few things they may not have had before and go, Wow, that’s what it’s supposed to taste like.”

With its focus on seasonal Australian produce, Amaru is one of just three restaurants worldwide involved this year in The Macallan Master of Colours dining experience. McIver and his team have been busy creating a bespoke menu paired with a selection of premium aged whiskies, each course corresponding to one of the six pillars associated with the renowned Scottish distillery. “It felt like a great opportunity to do something a little bit different, but that was still recognisable as Amaru. In getting to understand the complexities and the nuances in each whisky, we realised we could cook a little more boldly, in terms of spices, acidity, richness and texture.”

Two of those Scotch-friendly dishes will slot into the restaurant menu following the launch at the end of October, so regular diners can get a taste of the inspired flavour pairings between now and the end of the year. As for what’s next on the agenda, the premises on Armadale High Street is currently up for sale, which McIver is viewing as an opportune moment to reimagine Amaru. “We’re in a very, very small space here,” he says, “and we definitely lose a lot of business every year due to not having dedicated private dining. A little more space and storage would be nice. The fully realised version of what we do next – that’s my next project.”

Author Ceri David Deputy editor

Gourmet Traveller’s deputy editor, Ceri has been a lifestyle journalist for more than 20 years, contributing to titles including GQ, Marie Claire, Galah and the AFR. It’s a career that's taken her all over the globe, from checking out Viking remains in Oslo to documenting a rave in the Sinai desert. She’s been woken up at midnight by a lion roaring outside her South African tent, and regretted changing into thongs after a long day at the Milan shows, seconds before bumping into Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Originally from rural Wales, Ceri loves living in Sydney with its shape-shifting dining scene, and is happiest when tucking into a yolk-topped steak tartare. (Instead, you’ll usually find her at home, making cacio e pepe for her little boy. Every night.) The only thing Ceri appreciates as much as food and travel – if not fractionally more – is words.