As someone who is ensconced in Australian wine, I rarely get to “deep dive” into foreign regions. So, with a fresh notebook, a bowl of olives (great for the theme and also for neutralising tannin on the palate), and an open mind, I tried more than 30 different styles crafted from native grape varieties across Greece. Through this process, I realised that Greek and Australian wines maybe aren’t so different after all.
Greek wine has undergone many of the same teething issues that young wine regions experience. It’s not too long ago that Australian wines were also known to be concerningly big, bold, massively over-oaked and high in alcohol.
Unsurprisingly, from the country that layed the foundations for science, Greek winemakers have been quick to apply New World wine learnings. And the results are vibrant, restrained (in use of oak) and lighter in alcohol.
Many even employ screw-cap closures for younger wines instead of cork. Barney Fallows from wine wholesaler Déjà Vu Wine Co, the largest importer of premium Greek wine in Australia, recognises the similarities between Greek and Australian wine perceptions. “There has never been a more exciting time to re-introduce yourself to Greek wine, with the incredible value of the white wines and the medium-bodied textural reds perfect drinking for our climate,” says Fallows who explains this opportunity is born out of misconception. “The public perception is still stuck in the ‘retsina’ wine era, much like how riesling here in Australia is always perceived to be too sweet.”
We might categorise Greek wine as New World even though its most northern wine-growing region, Epanomi, has been making wine for more than 1500 years. Meanwhile kouloura, the ancient technique used in Santorini of weaving vines into baskets to protect them from coastal winds, is still used today.
Sam Christie, co-owner of The Apollo restaurant in Sydney’s Potts Point and sommelier at Brisbane’s Greca restaurant, has seen Greek wine’s recent evolution. “Modern Greek wine has become incredibly drinkable … with texture, acid and length, complexity and freshness that are interesting and not one-dimensional.” Christie looks for wines that don’t just scream for food, so “you can just have a glass”. The challenge is steering drinkers into less familiar territory, “so that it’s not a bridge too far,” he says. “You don’t have to make a wine like a chardonnay for it to be interesting.”
Christie’s hot tip? “It’s easy to be drawn in by the glamour of Santorini – it’s truly spectacular. I’ve seen the vineyards and how the wines are made and they’re worth every cent.” Yiamas!
Five Greek wines to try
2021 Douloufakis Dafnios Vidiano, Crete
This is made from the vidiano grape, which harks back to the 12th century. Texturally, the medium-bodied viscosity is reminiscent of viognier, while dried apricot, crisp pear and white pepper flavours will complement char-grilled chicken with oregano and lemon.

2020 Argyros Estate Cuvee Monsignori Assyrtiko, Santorini
The best of the best of assyrtiko (up there with high-end chablis) with a lovely lemon-balm fragrance and medium-weight textural components. This wine is silky on the palate with saline notes on the finish.

2019 Thymiopoulos Terra Petra, Rapsani
This blend of xinomavro, krassato and stavroto proves that 2019 enjoyed near-perfect conditions for Greek winemaking. Plush and plump with darker fruit expressions of blackcurrant, its grippy but pleasant tannin structure would pair well with a slow-cooked lamb shoulder.

2022 Ktima Gerovassiliou Malagousia, Epanomi
This grape variety (say it with me, Mal-o-goo-see-ah) was saved from extinction by winemaker Vangelis Gerovassiliou. Savoury almost flinty notes lead into ginger blossom and lemon pith. This wine is about texture rather than fruit expression; perfect for semillon lovers.

2021 Gaia Agiorgitiko, Nemea
Bright and vibrant on the palate, with pretty blue fruits leading the way into grainier tannins. It is an impeccable red to enjoy chilled as we enjoy the last moments of warmth in late summer.
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