David Moyle’s nettles with spelt, smoked bone marrow and toasted broccoli leaves
A large wood-fire oven is at the heart of all cooking at Hobart restaurant Franklin. This smoky dish combines a bone marrow broth with earthy spelt, nettles and toasted broccoli leaves for a nourishing menu standout.
“Most of the dishes at Franklin are developed through necessity,” says Franklin’s David Moyle. The key source of heat in his kitchen is the wood-fired Scotch oven, so Moyle and the team design the food (and the menus) to make the most of it. “When we make this at the restaurant, we smoke the bones in the chamber at the start of the firing process to capture the low temperature and smoke.” Moyle moved to Tasmania in 2011 to cook at The Stackings at Peppermint Bay, before upping sticks for Hobart to open Franklin in 2014. Good as the island state’s produce may be, he says it comes in two forms: “glut or nothing”, so getting serious about preserving methods (such as smoking) is again as much a matter of necessity in his kitchen as choice. “We use the wood fire while it’s cooling down to dry ingredients: oysters, calamari scraps, fish frames, seaweed. All of these add to our larder, which gives us flexibility and an ability to create depth of flavour.”
Ingredients
Method
Main
1.Light konro Japanese binchotan or wood or coal barbecue. Once the flames die down but before it gets too hot place the marrow on the grill cut-side down, then throw pine needles or smoking chips on the coals, place either the lid or a bowl or tray over the top to capture the smoke, and keep adding pine needles so the bones get constant smoke (4 minutes). Flip the bones over and grill uncovered until jellied in texture without much sign of blood (10-15 minutes). Scrape marrow from bones (reserve bones) into a fine strainer and press into the bowl of an electric mixer, then whisk until it’s white and fluffy (20 minutes). Set aside.
2.Place reserved bones and chicken stock in a large saucepan and bring to the boil (5 minutes), then strain and set aside (discard bones).
4.Meanwhile, boil spelt in 250ml water in a small saucepan until par-boiled (6-7 minutes). Set aside to cool in water (20-30 minutes), then add 1 tsp salt, stir and stand for 5 minutes. Strain.
6.Heat about 2 tsp remaining oil in a large frying pan over high heat, add broccoli leaves in batches, adding more oil each time, and fry until toasted lightly at the edges and stems weaken slightly (1-2 minutes). Drain on paper towels and season lightly.
7.Serve nettle-spelt mixture topped with toasted broccoli leaves and finish with a few drops of extra-virgin olive oil.
Applewood smoking chips are available from barbecue suppliers such as BBQ Aroma (bbqaroma.com.au). Pine needles need to be gathered from a forest. Wear gloves when preparing stinging nettles, and order them ahead from a greengrocer; if they’re unavailable, use a mix of spinach and silverbeet leaves. Broccoli leaves and baby kale are available from select greengrocers.