Even if you know it’s there, Astral Weeks is easy to miss. Hiding in plain sight in a busy Chinatown laneway, Perth’s first listening bar has little in the way of signage. And unless the front door is ajar, you won’t hear it, either: such is the quality of the acoustic treatment they’ve invested in. In short, there’s nowhere better out west to appreciate great music alongside top-shelf beverages.
But what if you felt like eating something more substantial than olives, bread and wine bar standards? You want Ah Um, the Astral crew’s restaurant offshoot that opened in September. Guests enter Ah Um through an unmarked sliding door at the back of the bar: a portal separating Astral Weeks from a Stranger Things-style Upside Down universe that flips elements of the mothership 180.
So rather than a beefy analogue sound system, the stereo here is all-digital. And whereas Astral is full of streetwear kids coming and going, the Ah Um crowd understand that reservations are essential for an intimate, dimly lit space boasting just eight tables. And if they do score a booking, they’ll celebrate by wearing glamorous gowns and sharp suits that evoke the timeless elegance of the jazz era.
The early menus from chef Branden Scott have been equally hard to pigeonhole with the former Wines of While co-head chef demonstrating impressive range for his latest gig.
Consider the focus on plump yakitori-style chicken thigh skewers brightened with kanzuri (Niigata’s famous fermented chilli kanzuri) plus a strong selection of artisan sake and it’s tempting to classify Ah Um as Japanese-ish. But then what of the kitchen’s more European-inspired moments? The charry toast primed with Marie Rose sauce, overlaid with sweet prawns and gift-wrapped with lardo? Or a lush, show-stopping rendition of River Cafe’s dessert signature, Chocolate Nemesis?
Eventually, it becomes evident that Scott doesn’t cook according to flags, but rather the ingredients he can get his hands on. A pert witlof, apple and toasted hazelnut salad succeeds on the quality of its joint headliners. And why make a blue cheese sauce to accompany dense, hibachi-grilled sirloin when you can simply serve the steak with a wedge of excellent Shropshire Blue?
While there’s something very clubby and grown-up about Ah Um, restaurant manager Jae Woods (ex-Le Rebelle and a 2024 GT Restaurant Personality of the Year finalist) and her crew work hard to create an atmosphere that’s buoyant yet welcoming. After all, you’ve worked hard to find the place: it only seems right to stick around and really enjoy your visit.
Related stories
Native ad body.
Native ad body.
Native ad body.
