This flamboyantly decked-out, first-floor space is so jam-packed with look-at-me patterns, hues and textures, first-time diners could easily fail to notice the extraordinary river and scenic views. Fortunately, the kitchen is adept at grabbing the attention of guests, so you’ll surely recall the well-plated fare. Saffron-laced aïoli and toasty brioche are perfect partners for creamy avocado and sweet spanner crab, with finger lime providing pops of acid. Wagyu-cross hanger steak suffers from arriving less then the requested medium-rare, but coal-roasted barramundi dressed with seaweed butter sauce needs nothing more than the charred lemon alongside it. The mammoth wine list is surprisingly easy to navigate, with a head sommelier and two assistants also on hand for guidance. Desserts observe Black Bird’s “excess succeeds” leitmotif, with a white chocolate rum lamington hogging the limelight beside a guava and mango brûlée.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★ ★
*Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100.
Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list.
