To have the complete Chaco Bar experience one must surrender all inhibitions at the fabric-draped door. Because inside this elongated and moody Japanese den, “nose-to-tail” is more than just a buzzword. Specialising in yakitori and taking inspiration from yatai – a traditional laneway izakaya or food cart, originating in owner Keita Abe’s hometown of Fukuoka – nothing at this city-fringe restaurant goes to waste. Take the chickens for example, which are deboned by hand; their different bits (wings, heart, tail) are skewered, basted and charred to perfection over a robata grill, while their bones and feet are simmered into a rich broth for sister restaurant Chaco Ramen. The cartilage is even studded through the tsukune meatballs. While the flame-licked skewers may be the star of the show, there are plenty of delicious things on plates. It might be warayaki (hay-smoked sashimi), miso-marinated toothfish with cumquat jam, or a just-set chawanmushi. The drinks menu is compact but strong, with sake and highball cocktails a must.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide 2022
Our guide gives a yearly snapshot of the best restaurants to eat at right now. The best-rated restaurants, as judged by the reviewers’ first-hand experience, form our national Top 80.
Benito Martin
