Anyone familiar with the work of restaurateur Jason M Jones and his designer partner Brahman Perera won’t be shocked that their latest venture, a Parisian-themed bar called Gigi, is an exuberantly decorated affair.
Located upstairs in a building opposite their exuberantly decorated French restaurant Entrecôte, Gigi is an explosion of ruched curtains, antique chandeliers and shaded sconce lighting, velvet upholstery and hand-painted walls by artist-designer Melissa Macfarlane (and also co-owner of Kyneton’s Botanik). Away from the main, street-facing salon, there’s a tiny, moodily lit “galerie” space slathered in paintings and a charming outdoor terrace. Altogether it’s a witty, campy call to indulgent good times.
Given that Gigi is a late-opening companion bar to Entrecôte, the food side of the equation is firmly set to snacks. Some, like a warm baguette with French butter, the cheese selection and desserts like chocolate mousse are in classic French mode but much of the menu has a distinct French-Aussie accent. Heftier offerings include a compact but immensely satisfying cheeseburger, the big-flavoured, nicely textured patty displaying great chemistry with Emmental cheese, pickles and Entrecôte’s signature herb butter. There are also sausage rolls with admirably flaky pastry surrounding the wine-forward Bourguignonne-channelling meat and applause-worthy toasted chicken sandwiches generous with mayo, tarragon and chives, delivered with tiny bottles of Tabasco.
Oysters arrive pre-dressed in a powerful Champagne mignonette that tends to overwhelm their flavour and a “prawn cocktailette” with a Marie-Rose mousseline is probably trickier than it needs to be but otherwise the food is pleasurably tasty and comforting.
Cocktails are French-accented and skilfully made (thumbs up to the signature gin and elderflower Gigi and the chilled Martini) and the thoughtful wine list, with its generous by-the-glass offer, also leans French, though it contains excellent supporting roles from Australia, America and the rest of Europe. The robust Champagne collection is noteworthy and includes great examples of grower Champagne and the output of big name houses.
At a time when companion bars are having a moment in Melbourne (Bar Olo, Apollo Inn, Le Splendide, Auterra) Gigi’s arrival is well-timed. Even better, the immersive experience offered by the over-the-top décor offers a welcome chance to make a full escape from the real world, something that’s truly très bien.
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