Entering this first-floor hideaway feels like tumbling through a wormhole into the Haut-Marais. The room is high-ceilinged, bookended by heritage windows, with timber floors and a sleek comptoir-bar. A sibling venture for Happy Boy, Greenglass reveals similar genes, with affable staff and an infectious verve for wine-friendly fare. By day, it’s a café; at night, everything skips up a level. A single-page wine list is augmented by a neat line-up of boutique offerings arrayed on a narrow shelf. The menu is tighter still. Kingfish ceviche confounds expectations, zinged up with pink grapefruit and lychee and framed by chilli and sesame oil, while confit tomato lands with mozzarella, glassy shards of prosciutto and pesto. Moreton Bay bugs arrive atop fried rice with lardons, broccolini and preserved lemon; steak frites impress with chips and spring onion jus. Not enticed by dessert? Order cheese and raise another glass instead.
