Swimming against the tide has been the forte of this pan-Asian diner subverting Melbourne’s Little Italy since 2019, and it shows no sign of letting up – even if the hot and sour potato (a deserving cult favourite with its thrilling Chinkiang vinegar backbeat) has gone from maverick to menu fixture. The unexpected lurks within the dark and moody dining room, including the gently experimental Australian producers dotting the always-interesting wine list and renegade flavour hits on parade. Case in point: a charry, spiced ox-tongue crêpe with jammy, charcoal-grilled jalapeño relish and cream cheese that may sound a bit crazy but really works. Lagoon hits its multi-course KPIs all the way to a delicately aromatic, deeply comforting cardamom soy-milk pudding in a puddle of orange syrup. Yet, it’s an equally good idea to slip into the bar for a House Sour, fragrant with osmanthus and lemon, and fried chicken coated in white-pepper togarashi, packing maximum crunch appeal.
