I’ve never been to Latin America, but I can’t imagine too many restaurants looking quite like Norté and its rooftop bar, Sueño. What I can imagine, however, is eating raw scallops dressed in tangy mango leche de tigre somewhere beachside – maybe with a cold pisco sour in hand.
That seems to be the very idea behind Norté, the latest venue from the team behind Rick Shores, Central, and Southside. Designed by J.AR Office, it takes a luxe, modern approach – think earthy tones and striking features – and pairs it with the vibrant flavours of Latin America.
You might begin with those aforementioned scallops, fresh and zingy, followed by a circular churro topped with picked spanner crab, jalapeño emulsion and yuzu ponzu gelatine. Don’t skip the raw beef tostadas. They pack a smoky-spicy punch, thanks to smoked agretti (a grass-like green) and fermented chilli sauce.
Before opening, group executive chef James Brady and head chef Rudy Malinverni took a trip through Latin America, which helped shape the menu.
Papas rellenas, for example, are a Peruvian dish of stuffed potatoes. At Norté, tender kangaroo tail replaces the usual minced beef filling, giving it an Aussie twist. There’s also a cracking pisco sour-inspired dessert, pairing sweet-tangy sunrise limes with pistachio gelato, caramelised white chocolate crumb and pisco sour foam.
It’s rare to find such respect for a cuisine, especially one as diverse as Latin America’s. It’s reflected in a substantial wine list, highlighting drops from Chile, Argentina, Uruguay and Mexico, plus an extensive tequila and mezcal range.
But it’s the mains that truly showcase what Norté is all about. Slow-cooked short rib is gloriously unctuous, dressed in sticky tamarind beef jus, and topped with Sichuan peppercorns and puffed quinoa for crunch. Alongside, a fruity aji amarillo purée, dehydrated chilli-marinated pineapple, freshly shaved pineapple, and textbook tortillas set the scene for some DIY taco action.
Meanwhile, a large fillet of Murray cod, expertly grilled over fire, arrives with bowls of guacachile (green chilli sauce) and green pico de gallo. By this point, the table is packed with condiments, sides, and sauces. Hands reach across for tortillas, tacos take shape, and drinks evaporate. It’s the kind of scene I imagine playing out across tables in Latin America. Even if you’ve never been, you’ll get a taste of it here.
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