No one would ever accuse Pablo Tordesillas of pulling his punches. In his days at Otto and at Brisbane favourite Ortiga, even at his most technical, flavour remained paramount. And so it is here on Hyde Park. The room and service might lean to the anodyne side of polished, and the name is the very definition of bland, but the menu comes out swinging. Superb anchovies contrast shiny green gordal olives, while colatura, the Italian fish sauce, brings the funk to a salad of nicely browned broccoli tossed with shreds of egg, fried shallot and currants. Do oysters need Granny Smith granita? Does the plate of kales need to be topped with lardo as well as migas cooked in chorizo fat? Possibly not. But in the face of exquisitely cooked Spanish mackerel sauced with watercress and piperade, or orange and sheep’s milk yoghurt with little crisps of brik pastry and a whisper of rosemary, such moments of overenthusiasm are easy to forgive.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
