There’s beauty in the in-between moments in this elegantly intimate dining room; the space around five courses allowing each plate to be appreciated and adored. Still-warm sourdough with saltbush butter, eucalyptus-tinged kangaroo pastrami and velvety chicken liver pâté spiked with muntries all hit harder with a wander around the organic and biodynamic farm where the ingredients grow. Glossy warrigal greens linguine with lemon myrtle and marigold tells the story of a deepening connection to country; first through regenerative farming, then with culinary director Kim Currie’s evolution in the kitchen, where a “chefs in residence” program includes First Nations chef Jack Brown (formerly of Printhie Dining) dishing up chicken ballotine with pepperberries and Davidson’s plum palate cleansers. If you can nab a daytime booking, long lunch is the play. The pledge to not to turn tables allows plenty of daylight to sip excellent Lowe Wines zinfandel and revel in one of the country’s best farm-to-table diners.
