Where there’s a Wills Domain, there’s a way to inject some special into any Margaret River weekend. The crisply designed cellar door restaurant and vistas of vines set the scene, as do steadily evolving estate wines. Equally progressive are the assured, sharply plated dishes that populate both the à la carte and dégustation menus: all strong signs that the relationship between culinary director Jed Gerrard and chef de cuisine Sergio Labbe is blossoming. Raw scampi cloaked in a pale kombu cream and cured scallops sharpened by tosazu are two ways seafood might get Japanese glow-ups. A low-rise of luscious wagyu beef cheek and crunchy warrigal greens suggests the kitchen handles turf as well as it does surf. Still not convinced? Peep the subtly op-art arrangement of celeriac in a cloudy Cambray sheep’s cheese broth, showered with finely grated truffle, or the earthy sweetness a glassy pane of sunchoke brings to lush chocolate mousse. Glorious.
