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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Spazzacamino


Spazzacamino, which translates literally as "chimney sweep", is similar to affogato, but instead of having coffee poured over it, it's dusted with finely ground beans. Good-quality Marsala is difficult to find but worth seeking out.

You'll need

To serve: sweet Marsala (see note)   Ricotta gelato 120 ml pouring cream 80 gm caster sugar 90 gm (¼ cup) liquid glucose 60 ml (¼ cup) milk 500 gm firm ricotta Finely grated rind of 1 lemon   Coffee dust 1 tbsp very finely ground coffee beans 1 tbsp raw caster sugar Scraped seeds of ¼ vanilla bean

Method

  • 01
  • For ricotta gelato, bring cream, sugar, glucose and milk to the simmer in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Beat ricotta in an electric mixer until smooth. Add cream mixture and rind and whisk to combine. Refrigerate until chilled, then freeze in an ice-cream machine and freeze until required. Makes about 800ml.
  • 02
  • For coffee dust, combine ingredients in a bowl.
  • 03
  • Scoop gelato into four serving dishes, sprinkle with coffee dust to taste, pour over Marsala to taste and serve.

Note Use a good drinking-quality Marsala rather than a cooking wine for this recipe. We used superiore semisecco Marsala, which is distributed by Arquilla and available from select bottle shops.


At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 4 people

Featured in

May 2011

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