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Aløft

There's nothing new about Nordic interiors - blond timbers, concrete surfaces, warm, mid-century charm without the twee - and thank heavens for that. It's a style that augments the beauty of everything around it, in this case, gorgeous Hobart harbour, which makes up one whole wall. What is new here, however, is the food - by veterans of Garagistes, which once dazzled diners down the road, Vue de Monde in Melbourne and Gordon Ramsay worldwide. There's a strong Asian bent, but with Tasmanian ingredients. In fact, the kitchen's love of the local verges on obsessive - coconut milk in an aromatic fish curry is replaced with Tasmanian-grown fig leaf simmered in cream to mimic the flavour. Other standouts include a gutsy red-braised lamb with gai lan and chewy cassia spaetzle, pigs' ears zingy with Sichuan pepper and a fresh, springy berry dessert. While the food is sourced locally, the generous wine list spans the planet. 

Secret Tuscany

A far cry from Tuscany’s familiar gently rolling hills, Monte Argentario’s appealing mix of mountain, ocean, island and lagoon makes it one of Italy’s hidden treasures, writes Emiko Davies.

Farro recipes

Farro can be used in almost any dish, from a robust salad to accompany hearty beer-glazed beef short ribs to a new take on risotto with mushrooms, leek and parmesan. Here are 14 ways with this versatile grain.

Moon Park to open Paper Bird in Potts Point

No, it’s not a pop-up. The team behind Sydney’s Moon Park is back with an all-day east-Asian eatery.

A festival of cheese hits Sydney

Kick off winter with a week of cheese tasting.

Discovering Macedonia

Like its oft-disputed name, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia defies simple definition but its rich diversity extends from the dinner table to the welcoming locals, writes Richard Cooke.

Grilled apricot salad with jamon and Manchego

Here we've scorched apricots on the grill and served them with torn jamon, shaved Manchego and peppery rocket leaves. Think of it as a twist on the good old melon-prosciutto routine. The mixture would also be great served on charred sourdough.

Brae

Prepare to enter a picture of the countryside framed by note-perfect Australiana but painted in bold, elegant and unsentimental strokes. Over 10 or more courses, Dan Hunter celebrates his region with dishes that are formally daring (Crunchy prawn heads! Creamy oyster soft-serve! Sea urchin and chicory bread pudding!), yet rich in flavour and substance. The menu could benefit from an edit, but the plates are tightly composed - and what could you cut? Certainly not the limpid broth bathing fronds of abalone and calamari, nor the clever arrangement of lobster played off against charred waxy fingerlings under a swatch of milk skin. The adventure is significantly the richer for the cool gloss of the dining room, some of the most engaging service in the nation and wine pairings that roam with an easy-going confidence. Maturing and relaxing without surrendering a drop of its ambition, Brae is more compelling than ever.

Mexican white corn soup


This Mexican soup is made with dried large-kernelled white corn known as hominy, which is a bit tough and takes a long time to cook. Here we've removed the germ tips to help it bloom, but you don't have to do this. You could also make a variation of this soup with dried chickpeas, reducing the cooking time. Pozole is traditionally made with pig's head, but we've used trotters, which can be ordered ahead from a good butcher; chicken is sometimes used, too. This version is inspired by a recipe by doyenne of Mexican cooking Diana Kennedy for Jalisco-style pozole; it has layers of pork flavour, popcorn-like hominy and a fresh cabbage garnish. Super-delicious. 

You'll need

1 kg pork bones 1 litre (4 cups) chicken stock 4 pig’s trotters 200 gm dried hominy, soaked overnight (see note) Juice of 1 lime, plus wedges to serve 750 gm boneless pork neck, cut into 5cm pieces Finely chopped coriander and onion, thinly sliced cabbage, and red or green chilli sauce, to serve

Method

  • 01
  • Place pork bones, chicken stock and 1 litre water in a large saucepan, bring to the boil, skim any scum from the surface, then reduce heat and simmer uncovered, topping up water if necessary to keep bones covered, until stock is well flavoured (2-2½ hours). Discard bones, add pig’s trotters to stock, top up with water to cover and bring to the boil. Skim scum from surface, then reduce heat and simmer gently, topping up water as necessary, until meat and skin falls from the bone (2½-3 hours). Transfer trotters to a bowl, then, when cool enough to handle, remove meat, coarsely chop and return meat to stock.
  • 02
  • Meanwhile, place hominy in a large saucepan with lime juice, cover with water, then bring to a simmer and cook for (15-20 minutes). Turn heat off and stand to soak for 20 minutes, then drain. When cool enough to handle, remove and discard hard germ tips from corn using a small paring knife, then combine corn in a new saucepan of clean water, bring to a simmer and cook until corn is tender (3-3½ hours). Drain.
  • 03
  • Add hominy to pork stock and place pork neck pieces on top, gently submerging them just under the water. Bring to the boil, skim surface, then reduce heat to low, season liberally and simmer until pork is tender (1½-1¾ hours). Remove pork pieces and break up, then return to soup and season to taste.
  • 04
  • Top pozole with coriander, cabbage and chilli sauce and serve with lime wedges.

Hominy is a dried white corn, available online from quillafoods.com. If it's unavailable, use canned cooked hominy, available from Monterey Foods (montereyfoods.com.au), drained and added with the pork pieces at the end.


At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people
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At A Glance

  • Serves 6 people

Drink Suggestion

Sparkling French farmhouse cider.

Featured in

Jul 2016

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