There are many types of nougat across the globe known by various names. There’s Spanish turrón, which comes in two versions: hard and brittle blocks heavy with whole almonds (Alicante), and a soft form (Jijona) in which the nuts are reduced to a paste. The Italians take pride in their torrone, a traditional Christmas confection hailing from Cremona in Lombardy, which also comes in hard (duro) and soft (morbido) varieties. And, of course, this being Italy, Sicily, Sardinia and many other regions besides have their own version. And then there’s Persian gaz, Greek madolato, Maltese qubbajd and Filipino turrones de casoy. What’s common to all of them, including French nougat, is the method of cooking honey and sugar and whisking it with eggwhite.