When the team behind Gourmet Traveller’s Wine Bar of the Year 2023 opened a Middle East and North Africa-inspired restaurant in late August, devotees didn’t have far to travel. New kid on the block Asha is just two doors down from Good Gilbert, almost close enough to hear euphoric gasps as diners encounter chef Scott Fox’s eggplant, green tahini, herbs, and fried onions for the first time.
The gluten-free batter’s crunch is audible, too. So delicate, so snappy. The secret? A seat at the bar overlooking the kitchen is close enough to ask chef (it’s xanthan gum and soda water).
Intimacy permeates this narrow haunt dotted with deep blue linen napkins and trimmings. Clever use of timber splits the former hair salon into three distinct spaces; group seating, booth seating; and dining with a bar view at the rear. All up, space for 34.
The menu includes a glossary of terms from faraway places. The breakdown of lachuch and pastilla inspires. Lachuch, a pancake-like flat bread is spiked with cumin and fenugreek, and teamed with a smoky eggplant purée and a mushroom and chervil salsa. Meanwhile, pastilla, traditionally a pigeon pie, is made with tender slow-cooked duck legs, encased in warqa dough, fried crisp and dusted with sweet almond and cinnamon powder. A mandatory dish.
Three- and four-course options encourage diners to share. Half a roast chicken, brined to melting moment status, sends ras el hanout-induced waves of surprise thanks to the pulse-quickening North African spice mix and blood orange tang.
Protein gets its moment, but Fox believes in championing vegetables. Broccolini topped with mechouia, a tabil-spiced tumble of grilled tomatoes, peppers, onions and garlic demands the spotlight, while carrots perform against a backdrop of almond cream and harissa made with carrot tops. All delivered with a smile from Fox’s partner Mel Holmes, who happily navigates a wine list that dips into Good Gilbert’s 450-strong arsenal.
Desserts are a feat of Middle Eastern choreography. Fox tones down the sweet factor, so it’s all balance. Moist olive oil cake, blood orange salad, pistachio halva, and a dollop of ashta is a crowd-pleaser. Rosemary custard, with crisp candied puff pastry and pops of bitter apple tea sherbert is also unforgettable.
Asha means “fortunate” in Hebrew, fitting for a restaurant exuding positive energy. It’s high-end dining with heart-warming delivery just as comfortable for solo bar dining as it is for a group of rambunctious pals. Regulars imminent.
Related stories
Native ad body.
Native ad body.
Native ad body.
