At the beginning of your multi-course omakase meal at Kappo, a waiter will bring a tray of chopsticks, each pair a different style, and ask you to pick which you’d like to use. A similar choice of ceramic sake cup will be offered if you’ve chosen to match sake with some of the dishes (you should – it’s a highlight). This attention to tactile dining detail is typical. The three-year-old space feels a little lived-in and love-worn, but what’s put on the table – and how it’s put there – is as focused as ever. Expect an exquisite balance of textures, flavours and temperatures from a list that focuses on vegetables and seafood: a cloud of eggwhite and pumpkin tofu bathing in limpid dashi; umami-sweet braised abalone on a puck of confit daikon; the fresh green lift of dill-scented rice and pickles; the crunch of brown sugar ice-cream. Expect brilliant drinks, too, chosen from a broad-ranging and well-priced list.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
