They say the classics never go out of style, and Naldham House is living proof. Among towering skyscrapers in Brisbane’s CBD, this 140-year-old landmark is a timestamp from the past. It’s only fitting, then, that its new tenant serves a menu steeped in tradition.
Take the chicken liver parfait: silky smooth, rich and perfectly seasoned, served with cornichons and freshly sliced baguette for spreading. Or a hand-cut steak tartare, studded with shallot, cornichons, and mustard seeds. There’s no unnecessary flourishes here, just classic dishes executed with textbook precision.
For 25 years, Naldham House was home to the members-only Brisbane Polo Club, before it stood vacant for nearly a decade. In July, it reopened to the public under the stewardship of DAP & Co (The Gresham Bar, Popolo, Walter’s Steakhouse), featuring an old-world brasserie inside and a more casual experience on the terrace. Though the building’s exterior might suggest an equally traditional interior, design guru Anna Spiro has incorporated a playful mix of colours and textures, creating an unexpected juxtaposition.
Douglas Keyte, former executive chef at Grill Americano, leads the kitchen. A hefty 650-gram Black Berkshire pork tomahawk, dry-aged and fat perfectly rendered, is served with mustard cream sauce. Meanwhile, a meticulously carved pithivier, filled with slow-cooked beef cheek Bourguignon and served with a gloriously sticky jus, is emerging as a crowd favourite for a reason. A quick glance around the room shows it’s on most tables.
Keyte’s seafood dishes are equally impressive. A mixed crudo of raw fish sees the addition of pickled chilli and a dash of acidic cabernet balsamic. The standouts, however, are among the snacks. Mooloolaba prawns are marinated in a zesty dressing and served atop toasted bread, while whipped cod roe, reminiscent of white taramasalata, is piped onto crisp chicken skin and topped with Oscietra caviar.
The team behind Naldham House clearly knows what it’s doing. After years of sitting idle, the building has been opened up to be enjoyed by all – not just a select few. The wine list reflects this, with plenty of excellent options under $100, while those wishing to splurge can still do so (a bottle of Krug comes close to four figures).
In case anyone finds classics predictable, desserts like the decadent chocolate Paris-Brest scattered with hazelnut praline, and a rum baba topped with Chantilly cream, are sure to change their minds. These dishes, much like Naldham House itself, are timeless.
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