Why aren’t more people talking about Nel? In a glam basement off grimy Wentworth Avenue, this restaurant has flown largely under the radar. Chef Nelly Robinson’s eight-course set menu changes monthly and is as eclectic as it is inventive, including everything from Indian and South East Asian flavours to Eccles cakes. You might start with a cloud-like vinegar and parmesan marshmallow, followed by a Thai-inspired skewered pork meatball with a coconut water chaser infused with green curry. Kingfish comes tender from the tandoor, while popcorn is cooked down to a savoury porridge and topped with chicken. The space creates the feeling of sitting inside the hold of a fancy boat, with long timber panels, leatherupholstered chairs and pendant lighting. There’s no choice but the tasting menu, which isn’t cheap, but the wine list is global, and it’s a booking worth making, even just to try the black pudding and apple macarons.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
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