After wowing Melbourne with Tipo 00, chef Andreas Papadakis has opened a second restaurant right next door, proving that his prowess with Italian food extends beyond spaghettini and rigatoni. But don’t panic, there’s still pasta at Ilaria. Nettle and blue cheese gnocchi and paccheri with prawns, sorrel and perfectly pitched prawn oil are seriously compelling but Papdakis also roasts duck, makes a richly satisfying pork liver sausage, grills baby octopus and exercises admirable restraint with desserts (see the sheep’s yoghurt semifreddo). There are 90 seats here, from booths to barstools, but it’s the kitchen bar with its perspective over the marble pass that provides the best views. Co-owner Luke Skidmore constantly refreshes the nine-page wine list, maintaining a small producer/Old-World lean. Service is sharp and tight and the mood bustling – all this makes Ilaria one of 2017’s most exciting restaurant openings.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Food: ★
Wine: ★ ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
