“Ingredient – dash – ingredient.” For some reason, this style of menuwriting often goes hand-in-glove with a particular school of cooking where the natural tastes and textures of said ingredients are subjugated to whichever fiddly technique happens to fascinate the kitchen at a given moment. Maybe all that dehydrating, puréeing and cooking things for hours in plastic bags leaves no time for such niceties as adjectives. The careful placement of tiny flowers on whiting fillets paired with tarragon and cucumber goo counts for little when the plate it’s on (and ergo the fish) isn’t hot. This is a hotel restaurant; lord knows what the weary business traveller looking for a steak does when they’re faced with “beef – pickled greens – black garlic – seaweed”. It’s not offensive, but seems to want for oomph. Service and wine are hotel-adequate, likewise the dining room; opt for a waterside table on a sunny day to make the best of it.
This review was made independently for the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide. The guide’s reviewers visit unannounced and pay their way.
Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide
Wine: ★
Gourmet Traveller’s star-ratings, which range from zero to three stars, reflect reviewers’ first-hand experiences. The best-rated restaurants form our national Top 100. Our wine ratings, from zero to three stars, are made by wine editor Max Allen on the strength of the quality of the restaurant’s wine list. View our rating key here.
The Gantry
Pier One Sydney Harbour 11 Hickson Rd Walsh Bay, Sydney, NSW
