Jason Loucas
The clues are subtle, but they’re there if you look. Here, a skylight that protrudes into the ceiling space has a distinctly coffin-like shape and there in a corner, a casket is balanced on timber beams. While this building’s background as a coffin factory may be a little macabre, its rebirth as Atlas & Vine is full of life.
Chef Nick Kavenagh’s background is impressive. He’s cooked at Noma, Core by Clare Smyth and Vue de Monde among others, but this is his first time as owner, and he’s forging his path with the best of Tasmania’s outstanding produce. Plates are designed to share and every dish is simply and beautifully executed, showcasing flavours that shine.
House-made focaccia crostini is topped with caramelised onions, Tongola curdy that’s had its sharp edges softened with the addition of a little sour cream and smoked lardo sliced so finely it’s almost translucent. Calamari from Bridport, in the state’s north, is delivered by the fisherman who caught it, fingers stained with squid ink, ready to be transformed into delicate strands coated with a barely warm beurre blanc and vibrant parsley oil. Lacto-fermented turnips on top add crunch and an acidic tang that sit in delightful contrast.
Designed by architects Taylor and Hinds, who also worked on Luke Burgess’s Scholé next door, the space somehow manages to be both voluminous and cozy, Kavenagh having kept capacity to a moderate 37 seats so he can serve and chat with every table. Original raw brick and sleek timber line the space, with a banquette along one wall, a fireplace at one end and a wall of glass facing the street. It’s buzzy without ever drowning conversation, but do ask for a chair with a back if you’d rather not be on a stool.
The wine list is balanced, with Tasmania is at its heart, local producers represented alongside wines from the mainland and around the world. A mix of small, boutique producers sits comfortably alongside iconic names.
Nothing here is overworked, but every dish has been created with care, confidence and years of experience. A Littlewood lamb backstrap, sliced to serve, generously feeds two and comes with meaty oyster mushrooms, still clustered together and bathed in a rich jus. Overnight potatoes are shatteringly crisp on the outside and fluffy within, with a natives-spiced cream for dipping. To finish, a palate-brightening one-bite lemon tart that tastes like sunshine on a plate affirming that Atlas & Vine is a worthy and welcome addition to the Hobart restaurant scene.
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