Restaurant Reviews

REVIEW A year after opening, The Summertown Aristologist has expanded beyond radiating good vibes as an on-trend hangout to place Adelaide Hills provenance at the centre of every plate. The kitchen’s hands-on commitment is serious, from making smallgoods to pulling vegetables from local plots hours before service. Robust saucisson with Hafod cheddar is a smart […]

REVIEW It’s nearly a decade since Urbane revealed its minimalist look, but the polished gallery-like setting remains crisp. So to the technique-driven dishes, now being conjured by a fresh team following the departure of Alejandro Cancino. Herbivore options have lost dazzle with the changing of the guard, but an array of intriguing snacks kick off […]

REVIEW No need to beware the Ides of March 2018, when the restaurant whipped back the curtains on the makeover it deserved. A sign of commitment to the fine-dining-with-a-difference cause, the formerly austere shopfront was anointed with sleek timber-slatted cladding and artworks injecting a hint of a retro sensibility. The more relaxed approach is another […]

REVIEW Lûmé has put its provocative adolescent past behind it, maturing into one of Melbourne’s most interesting dining experiences. Innovation remains integral to its DNA, starting with cocktails at the superbly tended bar where distilling, dehydration and carbonation come into play. It’s there in the flatteringly lit dining room that silky olive oil and mandarin […]

REVIEW There are people who, somewhere along the way, got the idea that “produce-driven” meant “boring”. Luckily, Bent Street is here to quietly explode any such ideas with blasts of flavour conjured from seasonal bounty. Blood plums provide the acid flash that animates grilled hand-pressed tofu, while vivid tomato and cardamom frame deeply flavoursome grilled […]

REVIEW This place pumps. In full flow it’s more akin to The Apollo where James Brown sweated out his hottest performances than the Apollo of the tunics and lyres. But for all the darkness, din and hustle, the attention to detail from the kitchen is splendid. Would you look at the flaky delicacy of that […]

REVIEW Remarkable views of the southern Grampians are given full cinematic treatment in the new building housing chef Robin Wickens’ flagship restaurant at the Royal Mail Hotel. Captured by floor-to-ceiling glass, the vista anchors the sense of place Wickens expresses on the plate through produce grown in the hotel’s gardens and meat raised on nearby […]

REVIEW An evening at Acme is like kicking on at your mate’s place after a big night out. There’s Drake and Cardi B on the stereo. Staff greet you like the party couldn’t start until you got there. And the best part? Your mate’s a banging cook whose combinations blow your mind. On the menu, […]

REVIEW Luxury takes many forms. While the walls of this solid, two-storey villa all but groan under the weight of owner Armando Percuoco’s collection of fine art, you get the feeling that he is personally moved just as much by the ratio of tomato, bread and oil on the bruschetta as he is by the […]

REVIEW What if the ultimate hangover cure wasn’t greasy bacon or burgers? Meet some of the most vibrant, flavour-first Chinese in the city. It’s fresh and fast and you’ll find it at a revamped pub. The menu steers clear of oil and gloppy sauces. Oversized xiao long bao are way better than they need to […]

REVIEW Nowhere is the connection between Kylie Kwong’s Chinese-Australian heritage and her understanding of place more clear than in her dishes fusing native ingredients with Cantonese cuisine. They’re no gimmick. The tartness of Davidson’s plum balances crisp-skinned duck with orange; the acid-pop of finger lime plays crucial foil to the XO sauce and lardons of […]

REVIEW Brisbane’s flagship French destination is now bigger, brighter and better. A relocation has added grandeur, without diluting Montrachet’s Old World ambience. Aged timber flooring, gilt-framed mirrors and burgundy leather banquettes are all present, but the handsome marble-topped comptoir is now bordered by a glassed-in cellar, as befits a list loaded with namesake chardonnay and […]

REVIEW The beachy jet-set fantasy conjured by the boutique likes of Halcyon House often comes undone at the table. But Paper Daisy doubles down on the magic, perfectly in tune with the blend of poolside ease and inspiration that makes this hotel such an intoxicating treat. At breakfast, pancakes are leavened with kefir, and whole-wheat […]

REVIEW There’s a frog on our table. No, our uninvited visitor isn’t on the menu, but plenty of other items from this rural restaurant’s multi-acre garden are: kipfler potatoes (roasted), heirloom tomatoes (fried), just-picked green leaves (lightly dressed with horseradish). Using local produce isn’t novel, but Alex Delly’s way with flavours and textures is deft. […]

REVIEW The city’s best ’80s playlist and fluent floor staff lend an undeniable sense of fun to this 40-seater, where supple leather booths and sculptured copper bring a sense of occasion. Ponder the premium wine list then opt for a five- or eight-course dégustation or go à la carte at lunch and weekday dinners. Chef […]

REVIEW Ishizuka brings the Tokyo vibe from the start with a bamboozling location involving unmarked entrances, buzzers and an elevator ride to the basement. There’s payoff for the navigation angst. Tomotaka Ishizuka’s serene 16-seater, its scene set with a paper-lantern room divider and textured concrete walls, offers a sublime 11-course kaiseki experience complete with thrillingly […]

REVIEW Spice Temple is the glam Chinese diner for all occasions, from yum cha to gala banquets or zodiac-themed cocktails in the bar. An upbeat playlist sets the scene in a Sino-accented space split between a refined dining room overlooking Southbank and a basement with ample mood. Menus are typically expansive but the wine card […]

REVIEW Whoa! What a piece of fish. When was the last time you saw wild barramundi on a menu? Here it’s free of the muddiness of the farmed stuff, its texture firm, a garnish of muntries and anchovyflecked grilled broccoli giving it a winning indigenous agrodolce vibe. But what’s with this shallow saucer smeared with […]

REVIEW Marion is the kind of place where a casual night out requires a week’s planning. Securing a table is the only pain you’ll have, however. There’ll be no head-scratching over the love for Andrew McConnell’s little wine bar that rose to the top of his Gertrude Street pops. Take a space with a patina […]

REVIEW Clinton McIver’s four- and eight-course dégustations are ready for their close-ups. Arriving on hand-shaped crockery, combinations like smoked duck ham curled along a length of crisp fermented carrot or slivers of shiitake and chawanmushi drifting in a sparkling broth are as good-looking as they are well balanced. Sourdough bread is a course in itself, […]

REVIEW “Dining hall” has something of an undergraduate vibe, but rare is the cafeteria that offers wallaby, let alone served cured, rolled up in pickled vine leaves with dollops of burnt-onion purée. The bones of this diner still reflect the room’s former Belgian-Beer-Café life; service is more friendly than professional, and the drinks list is […]

REVIEW Woodland House is a quiet champion of finer Melbourne dining. The service is witty and warm, and its two chefs have made a restaurant they took over from their mentor, Jacques Reymond, their own. The grey-walled dining rooms of the Victorian mansion are cosseting and contemporary. Shelves heave with decanters for a wine list […]

REVIEW There’s a hint of Alice in Wonderland about Oscillate Wildly: the narrow dining room, the black-and-white tiled floor, the sense of falling down an inner-west rabbit hole and meeting brilliant minds – from kitchen talent to front of house – along the way. Karl Firla’s dégustations are pure imagination. Creamy avocado with bergamot dressing […]

REVIEW Rockpool is the go-to for serious steakhouse action. There’s a reliable sense of occasion from the vast room’s leather-and-timber musculature and the kitchen’s wood grill that echoes the casino’s riverside fireball show in miniature. The 15-cut steak list is similarly impressive, name-dropping some of the best in beef – Blackmore, Cape Grim, Gunner – […]

Rosetta Melbourne is a restaurant in the same way that Ferrari is a car.

REVIEW Dinner and a show? You’ve come to the right place. The bling fest starts with your ascent skywards in a gilded mirror-walled elevator and it’s amplified when you disembark in the plush dining room with its wraparound triple-height glass walls, infinity pool and impressive two-storey wine cellar. Theatricality extends to both the food and […]

REVIEW At one end of the long, elegant room, a table of silks roars at a joke from the senior partner. At the other end, the arts maven and the former premier collude on the banquette at half the volume and twice the intensity. This is a place for machers who like their dining fine, […]

After winning fans with sandwiches and pop-ups, Joey Astorga puts down roots and branches out at Paperbark.

Time to open your wine cellar and grab that special bottle: we've narrowed down Sydney's best BYO restaurants.

From the city's reliable stalwarts to the contemporary takes on Chinese cuisine from up-and-coming chefs, there's a Chinese restaurant just right for you in Melbourne. Let us show you the way.

The Acme team tries its hand at Cambodian food on the former Mr Liquor site; good times, ace value and great booze follow.

Whether city or suburbs, late-night or lunchtime, Melbourne's pizza offering covers all bases. These are the best spots to find Neapolitan-style, Italo-American or something in-between.

With retro style and riffs on classics, Capitano, from the team behind Bar Liberty, isn’t your typical red-sauce joint.

A talented chef makes a convincing case that native Australian ingredients have a place within Southeast Asian tradition.

Handmade, hand-crafted and following the principle of "taste of hand", Sáng by Mabasa has an assured touch, and expands the definition of Korean dining in Sydney.

REVIEW The Fish House could coast by on the view alone: its front windows, usually open, overlook the sweep of the Gold Coast; in the distance the skyscrapers of Suerfers Paradise rise from the blue water like Emerald City. Burgers and watered-down soft drinks would make a killing. Instead, chef Damien Styles doubles down on […]

With a newly refreshed look and an updated menu, Bentley consolidates its position as the rare restaurant where wine and food meet on an equal footing.

The boys from Embla have levelled up their offering. The wine bar’s first-floor sister restaurant, Lesa, is gathering fans fast – and for good reason.

A Carlton local gets a winning revamp with the right team in the right place at the right time.

O Tama Carey finally has a permanent site to show off her own brand of Sri Lankan food, and the result is all killer, no filler.

Phil Wood's talents are front and centre at his new fine diner, Laura, part of the impressive Pt Leo Estate sculpture park, cellar door and winery on the Mornington Peninsula.

The tablecloths may be gone, but Quay 2.0 bridges the gap between luxuries old and new like no other fine diner.

A glam new brasserie atop The Newport in Sydney's northern beaches boasts crab worth crossing bridges for.

Restaurant Shik - Peter Jo's first permanent restaurant - fills a gap in Melbourne for smart, switched-on Korean.

We've narrowed down Sydney's best wine bars to a tight list of 12 top spots, as seen in the 2018 Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide.

Newtown restaurant Hartsyard 2.0 riffs on its previous form, but with a lighter, more up-tempo rhythm.

Tasmania-bound? Make some time to get out of Hobart and see what the rest of the island has to offer. Between fine-diners and one-starred restaurants, here are the drinking and dining spots worth seeking out, as featured in our 2018 Restaurant Guide.

Whether you're seeking a modern cocktail bar or a good old-fashioned pub, there's something for everyone in the Tasmanian capital. Here are the best bars in Hobart, as featured in our 2018 Restaurant Guide.

With new chef Analiese Gregory at the helm, Hobart’s finest diner is having its moment.

A new CBD pop-up taps classic London style to create the perfectly unpretentious restaurant Sydney has been waiting for.

As seen our 2018 Restaurant Guide.

Marrickville and the CBD are catching up but Surry Hills continues to be ground-zero for Sydney's café scene. Here are our favourites for brews, food and everything in between, as seen in Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide, published in August 2017.

From sleek cocktail bars to spots for the whisky-lover, Melbourne has it all. These are the best of Melbourne's bars, as seen in Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide, published in August 2017.

Between the décor, prime cuts and tableside service, Walter's Steakhouse transports you to the classic steakhouses of Midcentury New York.

It's out with the French, in with the fish as Bistro Vue reopens as Iki-Jime.

Smart operators and chart-topping eats (including more than just pizza) make Harley & Rose good news for West Footscray.

REVIEW Some dining guides have a worth-a-detour category, reserved for good value, local produce-driven regional diners. That’s exactly the speed at the low-frills, double-fronted shop that houses Mullum’s destination-drive wood-fired pizzeria. Don’t expect any ceremony at this locals’ hangout, where the greeting is likely to be, “Hey, what’s happening?” The less-is-more sustainability theme manifests in […]

Sleek, sharp and bayside-casual, Barrio has the best of New Byron squarely on show.

On the Mornington Peninsula, Jackalope Hotel's more casual diner is a standout example of winery dining done right.

The best of Canberra's drinking establishments, coffee hot spots and bars with bites, as seen in Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide, published in August 2017.

The Barossa, Adelaide Hills, McLaren Vale - wherever you find yourself among the vines, good food is never far away with this list in hand. Here are the best restaurants in South Australia's wine regions, as seen in the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide, published in August 2017.

Marta marries Rome’s signature dishes and air of joyful chaos to deliver a hit.

Where to get the best coffee, breakfast and pastries in Perth, as seen in the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide, published in August 2017.

With classical technique balancing contemporary flair, Melbourne’s Ryne shows that savoir-faire never goes out of fashion.

At Mona’s new restaurant, Faro, the art and the eating come together with a full chorus of brain-bending light shows, pigs’ eyeballs and basil. Strap yourself in for something completely different.

Can’t get into Fred’s? Get a taste of some of Sydney’s most sought-after food at the new Hotel Centennial.

Barangaroo House is big, bold and occasionally beautiful. Could it be a blueprint for the pub of the future?

The best bars in Adelaide, as seen in the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide, published in August 2017

The combination of party vibe and precise cooking makes Melbourne's latest pan-Asian eatery stand out from the crowd.

The Mayfair brings an air of retro-bistro chic and the food to match to Melbourne's late-night dining scene.

REVIEW Entering this first-floor hideaway feels like tumbling through a wormhole into the Haut-Marais. The room is high-ceilinged, bookended by heritage windows, with timber floors and a sleek comptoir-bar. A sibling venture for Happy Boy, Greenglass reveals similar genes, with affable staff and an infectious verve for wine-friendly fare. By day, it’s a café; at […]

REVIEW This flamboyantly decked-out, first-floor space is so jam-packed with look-at-me patterns, hues and textures, first-time diners could easily fail to notice the extraordinary river and scenic views. Fortunately, the kitchen is adept at grabbing the attention of guests, so you’ll surely recall the well-plated fare. Saffron-laced aïoli and toasty brioche are perfect partners for […]

Paul Wilson returns to the cooking that made Melbourne love him with Prahran's Wilson & Market.

REVIEW Freshly shucked, peak-condition Bateman’s Bay oysters? Sliced to order Spanish, Italian and locally made charcuterie? Or how about gnochetti tossed with slow-cooked lamb, anchovies, green olives and ricotta salata? Wine might get top billing at Bellota, given it’s a wine bar attached and with direct access to the Prince Wine Store and its 3000-plus […]

The best cafés in Hobart, as seen in the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide, published in August 2017.

The new Pinbone adventure, Mr Liquor’s Dirty Italian Disco, is here for a good time not a long time, but the times are very good indeed.

Melbourne's best addresses for coffee, snacks and all-day fare, as featured in the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide, published in August 2017.

Laneway resident Arlechin heralds a new era of sophistication in late-night bar culture.

REVIEW Michael Bacash is Melbourne’s fish whisperer, the man who sets the local seafood standard. He and Fiona Perkins have been serving top-notch dishes in their charcoal-toned restaurant for 15 years and at Toofey’s before that. It’s a grown-up place (chaps, get out that collared shirt),  but easy and casual, too, with spot-on service. Oysters? […]

REVIEW Sean’s Kitchen is celebration city, embracing the ethos of an eclectic New York-style brasserie. Its high vaulted ceiling, hanging jamon and impressive kitchen flames erupting from the charcoal station create exuberance soaked up by an eager crowd of diners. The casual downstairs bistro space pulls off its amalgam of railway diner-meets-butcher shop chic; upstairs […]

The best cafés in Brisbane's city limits, as seen in the 2018 Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide.

REVIEW Spending a few hours at Spicers Tamarind Retreat feels like an escape. Even if you’re not staying the night, you can still enjoy the lush rainforest backdrop from the restaurant and chill out. The Tamarind is driven by warm, friendly service and the dining pavilion takes inspiration from Thailand, with the menu meandering around […]

Chin Chin Sydney’s tune might be familiar, but it still has half the city nodding along.

REVIEW Hartsyard opened in 2012 when American fare here, beyond mediocre fast-food joints, was largely an anomaly. Now it’s everywhere, making you wonder how a restaurant can peddle fried chicken for $33. (Sure, it’s juicy, crisp and golden, but we’re talking four pieces of chicken here.) Perhaps it’s because the smart décor and deft service […]

REVIEW The long drive at All Saints makes a stately impression, flanked by old elms, manicured gardens and the 19th-century castle housing All Saints’ historic winery and cellar door. Its restaurant, however, is a thoroughly modern space offering a warm welcome, charming service and food as unpretentious as the charcuterie plate of house-made terrine, cured […]

REVIEW Oh, Longrain, can it really have been 17 years already? You take bookings now, and what was the bar when you first opened is now home to large booths, so the dining is no longer strictly communal. Your service is a mix of switched-on and cursory, and you’re as loud as bustling as ever, […]

It's double the fun with the opening of Tipo 00's sibling, Osteria Ilaria, writes Michael Harden.

The best burgers Sydney has to offer, as seen in the Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide, published in August 2017.

REVIEW Don’t let the silly name fool you. Doot Doot Doot, the marquee restaurant at Jackalope, Gourmet Traveller’s 2017 Hotel of the Year, is a must-do when on the Mornington Peninsula. For starters, there’s the 10,000-bulb chandelier pulsing above the dark-hued dining room. Then there’s a wine focus that embraces the estate’s Willow Creek repertoire […]

REVIEW Chef Quentin Whittle cleverly rethinks suburban bistro style by borrowing boldly from many cultures and producing a variety of share plates with generosity and flair. Salmon sashimi with tahini yoghurt sets the mood – its strong salt levels met with a robust mix of chilli, sumac, candied walnuts, chopped herbs and salmon roe. A […]

REVIEW Visiting Magill Estate is like travelling in time: past Dr Penfold’s 1840s cottage, up to bluestone cellars housing Australia’s most famous wine. Back to the future, Magill Estate Kitchen is a sleek daytime dining space to complement the wine tasting room, contained in contemporary pavilions overlooking vines down to the city. The casual lunch […]

REVIEW Sitting pretty in wine country, surrounded by mountain and vineyard, Margan is more than worthy of a detour. The estate bottles its share of fine wine (not least the shiraz), but it’s also a fine place to while away an hour or two at the table. They’re good at growing things other than grapes, […]

REVIEW Inspired by Spain and Portugal without slipping into caricature, Iberia captures authenticity on the plate. The serious kitchen brigade concentrates on subtleties, best seen in dishes highlighting carefully sourced seafood and vegetables. Grilled perch fillet sits with peas, almond and fennel. Caldoso is rich and fulfilling, its deep, savoury broth augmented by chickpeas and […]

REVIEW Simplicity is Timbre Kitchen’s spirit animal. It’s present in the room, an airy space furnished with rush-seated chairs and bare timber tables, set among vines with the Tamar River somewhere off in the distance. It’s also there in the breezy but competent service and in the drinks list that mixes Velo wines (from the […]

REVIEW In a chic space designed by Hecker Guthrie, Piermont Retreat’s restaurant makes a luxury out of seasonality – using a small pool of ingredients in rigorously inventive ways. While those who need a menu may struggle, true bliss comes from letting go and seeing what lands. It might be a pork terrine animated by […]

REVIEW Here’s a fresh concept: two wineries (Mr. Riggs Wine Co & Zonte’s Footstep) develop a joint cellar door in McLaren Flat as a bar, sales outlet and kitchen, encouraging customers to taste their expansive ranges. Consequently, the nimble kitchen caters for a variety of appetites, but has an unconventional way of creating a two-to-four […]

REVIEW When the wine list comes with a table of contents and the waitress acts out the backstory of your dinner’s cooking fuel, it’s fair to expect a lot of words with your food. Luckily, the meal speaks for itself. The marquee dishes are meat plus smoke. A bell jar adds theatre to an elegant […]

REVIEW Riding the Hobart wine-bar new wave, Ettie’s is the safe word to its more outré peers – a bistro where the pan-roasted chicken evokes rose-hued Sunday lunch reveries and the house sourdough is worth smuggling home for supper. Its slick CBD digs has the ghost of that sweet little wine bar in Paris, while […]

REVIEW Three guys with fine-dining experience walk into a North Fitzroy pub. The punchline? A local with all its hospitality fundamentals in place, a cracker of a wine list and a menu that includes name-brand steak (Hopkins River, O’Connor) with chips and snags with barbecued onions alongside more complex dishes like superb blood pudding and […]

REVIEW Chef Dan Moss has learned a lot since moving to the Clare Valley in 2012 and opening this boutique bistro. His initial eagerness for experimenting meant dishes sometimes got confusing. But time has tempered the chef’s style and his understanding of regional ingredients has grown. So consider his locavore menu afresh, starting with haloumi, […]